Razor Bumps

Razor bumps (known formally as pseudofolliculitis barbae) are small ingrown hairs that occur after shaving when the stands of hair curl back into the skin causing irritation and small papules (bumps) to form in the beard area. This condition is found mainly in darkly pigmented men with coarse, tightly curled hair

Pseudofolliculitis barbae affects 60% of people with skin of color who have coarse, tightly curled hair and shave close to the skin.  It can occur in any race and in either gender.  In addition to the beard area, the pubic area, scalp, and legs also may develop razor bumps particularly if they are shaped often.

With shaving, the razor produces short, sharp, and pointed hairs penetrate the skin either in an extra – or transfollicular matter. Tightly curled hair is usually cut at an oblique angle, creating a sharp tip at the distal end that enables the hair to penetrate the skin about 1 to 2 mm from where it exit the follicle. Once the hair penetrates the skin, and inflammatory reaction occurs. Hair growth usually continues into the skin and when it reaches the dermis it produces an even greater inflammatory reaction.

Shaving the hair against the grain and pulling the skin taut and then releasing can cause the hair to retract below the surface of the skin and then grow in a curved manner, piercing the follicular wall.  This condition gets the name pseudofolliculitis because as the inflammatory process continues the bumps conform into pustules which typically occur in the presence of bacterial skin infections (i.e. folliculitis) however razor bumps do not have a underlying bacterial component.

            The only treatment that is 100% effective is to discontinue shaving.  While this is not a realistic option for everyone, we do have many treatments that help control and manage this condition.  Laser hair removal with a NdYag device or electrolysis have been proven effective in treating / preventing razor bumps.  Using an electric razor is helpful since they do not cut as closely to the skin as manual blades.  Another option includes, over the counter topical depilatory creams (i.e Nair, Neet) that work by dissolving the hair shaft. However, these can be irritating and cause a severe irritant dermatitis in sensitive individuals.  To avoid this, performing a test patch in a small area is recommended.

Other topical treatments for maintenance and prevention include topical retinoids, glycolic acid, benzoyl peroxide and clindamycin1% gel.

• Wash the beard area with a washcloth and then massage with a soft brush.
• Rinse off the soap and then apply a warm compress for approximately five minutes.
• Lather with a shaving cream for sensitive skin (Aveeno for Sensitive Skin is recommended)
• Choose a sharp razor that cuts best without irritation.
• Shave with the grain of the hair, using short strokes while avoiding pulling the skin taught.
• After shaving, rinse the face with warm water and then compress with cool water for approximately five minutes.
• Use a magnifying mirror to search for any ingrown hairs and release them gently inserting a toothpick under the loop
• Apply the most soothing and least irritating aftershave preparation. If burning or stinging occurs, a topical hydrocortisone cream can be used in addition to the aftershave lotion.